Fruit Tree Pruning Q + A with Nico

Fruit Tree Pruning Q + A with Nico

As the buds swell upon the trees, the coldest weather is behind us, and it is an opportune time to tend to fruit trees. The first warm days of the year are shining upon us, and in salivating anticipation of the delicious fruits of summer, tend to your fruit trees to increase production and reduce disease. We branched out and interviewed staff member Nico to bring you tips from an experienced tender and pruner of fruit trees! Although he claims to be no pruning master, Nico approaches fruit tree pruning with interest and curiosity, trying to make each cut an informed one.

Q: When and why prune fruit trees?

You kind of have to become the tree, imagining the future growth of the tree and what growth your cuts will influence. It’s fun. It doesn’t have to be perfect, although mistakes take a long time to correct, so do your research: go to pruning workshops, practice on neglected trees that need lots and lots of care to get back into shape.

Most fruit tree pruning typically happens in late winter while trees and most plants are dormant. After the worst of the cold but before bud break. You can work up until budding if you need to, but I try to give the tree space to set its precious buds out.

Here in WNC, elevations vary greatly so we get different areas that are getting hard freezes longer. Generally I usually aim to do my pruning in February into the beginning of March. There are times that summer pruning is appropriate to remove new growth of water sprouts, commonly caused by previous heading cuts made to the tree.

General terms used to describe fruit trees when pruning. Image courtesy of Oregon State University ©

Q : How do you approach trees for pruning? How would you approach an older tree vs. a younger tree? What design framework do you use?

Ideally, trees are pruned and trained from when they are wee ones. I know there are lots of folks who just get a hold of fruit tree whips at the bare root sales and how exciting that is!

It’s a good time to start establishing functional growth habits with a heading cut. As the tree grows and sends out its lateral branches, you can annually select strong branches with good angles to become your scaffold branches.

With older, established trees there will be a wide range of care the tree has received over its life.

Basically I would approach the tree with some basic concepts in mind:

1. First, I prune for overall health, fruit production, shape and aesthetics. I’m generally thinking of the shape of the tree, what form makes the most sense. Is it to be a central leader? Modified leader? Open vase? Espalier? Dragon shaped?

There are many possibilities. Certain varieties or species of fruit trees naturally lean towards different shapes and we can try and work with them or try and bend them to our own preferences. Whatever the shape we choose, we’re looking to get as much sunlight and airflow to the fruit as possible.

Whether we’re restoring an old neglected overgrown tree or working on a tree that’s received annual pruning care, there are some methods that are the same. First it’s good to remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood from the tree. These all encourage disease that can spread throughout the tree. So let’s go after these first.

A detailed diagram of pruning for a “central leader” from the agriculture department of Western Australia.

2. Secondly, I look at the tree and try to cut out branching that crosses other branches and/or grows inward. These can rub and open wounds up to disease as well. These will not be of benefit in the long run so let’s get’em out of there. Branches that have too acute of an angle from the tree will become weak and are more likely to break and split from the tree, possibly causing severe damage if they were to tear down the side of the trunk. That’s no good.

By strategically keeping branches lower to the ground (not too low though) and plenty of open space between branches, it allows the fruit to get the sun and airflow it needs to ripen, without as much disease, and it allows humans to reach it for harvesting ease. Seems intuitive and it kinda is!

There are specific things to know about tools and techniques, what wood is what, where will the fruit develop, different rootstocks, etc. Don't worry, There’s plenty to nerd out on.

3. Finally, different species do require different pruning methods.

You must understand what type of tree you’re working with, how old it is and where it sets fruit. If you prune off all the tips of a tip bearing tree you’ll have no crop. If you don’t prune enough off another tree, it might set out tons of lil puny apples that you’ll have to hand thin.

• Peaches and some other stone fruits do better and are generally kept to an open vase shape, they are lower growing trees with lateral branching that fruit on younger wood.
• Cherries perhaps being an exception to the lower growing tree thing, they can really reach!
  
  
• Apples seem to do better with a more upright central or modified leader form and they fruit on older wood fruit spurs similar to pears.
• And another example, Bradford pears like to be cut back all the way to the ground.
  
  

You will want to have sharp, clean tools. A folding ladder is usually needed.

There’s so much fruit in this world, you’ll have to dive in and read up. Get a hold of some books, go to some local workshops, help your neighbors. There are many talented fruit and nut tree people here in our area, many of them ready to share their knowledge. See what you can learn.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Many thanks to Nico for sharing his knowledge! Do check out this amazing resource from Oregon State University with detailed diagrams, glossary, and videos. If you are interested in fruit tree care workshops, check out these opportunities in the area such as the Organic Growers School.