Fruit Tree Pruning Q + A with Nico As the buds swell upon the trees, the coldest weather is behind us, and it is an opportune time to tend to fruit trees. The first warm days of the year are shining upon us, and in salivating anticipation of the delicious fruits of summer, tend to your fruit trees to increase production and reduce disease. We branched out and interviewed staff member Nico to bring you tips from an experienced tender and pruner of fruit trees! Although he claims to be no pruning master, Nico approaches fruit tree pruning with interest and curiosity, trying to make each cut an informed one. Q: When and why prune fruit trees? You kind of have to become the tree, imagining the future growth of the tree and what growth your cuts will influence. It’s fun. It doesn’t have to be perfect, although mistakes take a long time to correct, so do your research: go to pruning workshops, practice on neglected trees that need lots and lots of care to get back into shape. Most fruit tree pruning typically happens in late winter while trees and most plants are dormant. After the worst of the cold but before bud break. You can work up until budding if you need to, but I try to give the tree space to set its precious buds out. Here in WNC, elevations vary greatly so we get different areas that are getting hard freezes longer. Generally I usually aim to do my pruning in February into the beginning of March. There are times that summer pruning is appropriate to remove new growth of water sprouts, commonly caused by previous heading cuts made to the tree. Q : How do you approach trees for pruning? How would you approach an older tree vs. a younger tree? What design framework do you use? Ideally, trees are pruned and trained from when they are wee ones. I know there are lots of folks who just get a hold of fruit tree whips at the bare root sales and how exciting that is! It’s a good time to start establishing functional growth habits with a heading cut. As the tree grows and sends out its lateral branches, you can annually select strong branches with good angles to become your scaffold branches. With older, established trees there will be a wide range of care the tree has received over its life. Basically I would approach the tree with some basic concepts in mind: 1. First, I prune for overall health, fruit production, shape and aesthetics. I’m generally thinking of the shape of the tree, what form makes the most sense. Is it to be a central leader? Modified leader? Open vase? Espalier? Dragon shaped? There are many possibilities. Certain varieties or species of fruit trees naturally lean towards different shapes and we can try and work with them or try and bend them to our own preferences. Whatever the shape we choose, we’re looking to get as much sunlight and airflow to the fruit as possible. Whether we’re restoring an old neglected overgrown tree or working on a tree that’s received annual pruning care, there are some methods that are the same. First it’s good to remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood from the tree. These all encourage disease that can spread throughout the tree. So let’s go after these first. 2. Secondly, I look at the tree and try to cut out branching that crosses other branches and/or grows inward. These can rub and open wounds up to disease as well. These will not be of benefit in the long run so let’s get’em out of there. Branches that have too acute of an angle from the tree will become weak and are more likely to break and split from the tree, possibly causing severe damage if they were to tear down the side of the trunk. That’s no good. By strategically keeping branches lower to the ground (not too low though) and plenty of open space between branches, it allows the fruit to get the sun and airflow it needs to ripen, without as much disease, and it allows humans to reach it for harvesting ease. Seems intuitive and it kinda is! There are specific things to know about tools and techniques, what wood is what, where will the fruit develop, different rootstocks, etc. Don't worry, There’s plenty to nerd out on. 3. Finally, different species do require different pruning methods. You must understand what type of tree you’re working with, how old it is and where it sets fruit. If you prune off all the tips of a tip bearing tree you’ll have no crop. If you don’t prune enough off another tree, it might set out tons of lil puny apples that you’ll have to hand thin.
There’s so much fruit in this world, you’ll have to dive in and read up. Get a hold of some books, go to some local workshops, help your neighbors. There are many talented fruit and nut tree people here in our area, many of them ready to share their knowledge. See what you can learn. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Many thanks to Nico for sharing his knowledge! Do check out this amazing resource from Oregon State University with detailed diagrams, glossary, and videos. If you are interested in fruit tree care workshops, check out these opportunities in the area such as the Organic Growers School.
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Written by Eliza Rose Laubach Mid-winter. Snow blanketed the ground in the shady, north-facing slopes for several weeks. Streaming icy crystals textured like piped icing emerged from the soil as hoarfrost, pushed up as the ground thaws then refreezes again, sometimes curling over in snakelike tendrils. We have just passed through the coldest time of the year, and the trees are still sleeping, dreaming of spring rains as they ready to run sap through their trunks. Those that were spared by Helene of course. The thaw begins, yet spring is still a dream. Winter time draws us inward, to reflect, nest and slow down with the darker nights. Now, with spring nearing the horizon, it is a time to stoke our fires for creativity as many of us stoke our wood stove fires to stay cozy, or perhaps feel the modern fire of forced-air heat warming the bones of our houses. February 1st/2nd is a cross-quarter day. Quartering the half-way point between the Winter Solstice and the Spring Equinox, like a knife through snow. We now call this Groundhog Day, and look to predictions for how spring will emerge. In a calendar older than the Gregorian one which marks our modern days, this day was recognized with reverence for the fire we must keep burning through the winter, and also gives us the promise of spring — it is not far off now. It is a day to honor transition, and focus intent and creativity. A time to acknowledge emergence, beginning, the reawakening of life force after winter’s deep sleep. For those who choose to honor ancient Celtic customs, this day is called Imbolc (pronounced “Im-molk) which is derived from an Irish Gaelic word some think means “in the belly” describing pregnant farm animals soon to give milk, or the act of milking itself. While this day was, and still is, especially honored in the Celtic Isles, it was also celebrated across central Europe, as is marked by the Roman Catholic holiday of Candlemas, festival of candles and light. Here in southern Appalachia, wood frogs emerge from their semi-frozen state hidden in leaf litter with the first warm rain around this time. If you are lucky, you might spot chickweed, a low-growing, common edible plant, that begins to grow in moist, disturbed soil. We begin to dream of planting seeds and plan our gardens for the year. Beyond fire, milk, and the numerous signs of new life peeking through, there is another traditional theme of Imbolc that rings through my mythopoetic mind around this time. Metal and therefore tools. Metal is forged in fire, and tools are the basis for human creative potential. The beginnings of our work in the world, and in our gardens, lies in the tools we use. How can we tend to our garden tools so that we experience ease and ripe potential when we begin to break ground? Now is the time to clean, sharpen and oil our garden tools, or to purchase what we need for the growing season ahead. Tending Garden Tools Clean Remove large clods of dirt by hand. Wipe down with warm water or a strong spray from the hose to fully clean the dirt off. A washcloth is helpful for wiping down smaller tools. Allow to dry. Keeping tools clear of dirt regularly will keep them sharp and reduce rust building up. Also, this helps to prevent the spread of non-native plant seeds and potential pathogens in the soil around the different zones of your landscape, or of others you visit. Sand Sanding the wooden handles of your tools will protect them and lengthen their life. Moisture can raise the grain of the wood, whether it’s from soil, dew or rain, making the handle rough. Sand the wooden handles with a rough grit sandpaper, then follow up with a finer grit. You can also use sandpaper to remove rust from the metal blades of your tools. Sharpen The next step is to sharpen the metal edges and sand wooden edges, if applicable. You will need a sharpening tool, such as a whetstone for finer, sharper edges on pruners, shears or loppers, or a metal file for larger edges on shovels or pitchforks. Most pruners and loppers can be taken apart with a wrench and straight-edge screwdriver. There is already a beveled edge on sharp tools, which you will want to find with your whetstone or metal file and follow that angle as you sharpen. Tool sharpening services are available in the Asheville area! Kaleb Wallace is a blade sharpener extraordinaire, and he will be at the Asheville City Market on Saturday mornings with a blade sharpening setup starting mid-March. You can also email him at [email protected] to set up a sharpening appointment. The Asheville Tool Library hosts a “Repair Cafe” every other month where you can take broken tools to troubleshoot and receive help in repair. Asheville’s Sharpest Edge has a storefront you can take your tools to sharpen. Oil After your tools have been cleaned, sanded and sharpened, you may oil them on both the metal and wood parts to protect them throughout the season. Boiled linseed oil is choice for tools, as petroleum products will contaminate your garden. Liberally wipe down your tools with an oiled cloth, let sit for 15 minutes, then wipe off any excess with a clean cloth. Old T-shirts or socks or great for this! By tending to your tools, you will be ready for the gardening season ahead, and ensure that they live a long life in your hands. If you are looking to purchase new garden tools, here’s some of our favorite brands, and recommendations on local businesses to purchase: Tools We Recommend
Stores Reem’s Creek Nursery: local nursery with plants, tools, seeds and more! 5th Season: Regionally-based garden store with tools, seeds, amendments and more! L.O.T.U.S. Farm and Garden Store: local store to get soil amendments and nutrients, especially in bulk. Garden Tool Company: high-quality heirloom garden tools Sources: Garden Tool Company: https://www.gardentoolcompany.com/pages/garden-tool-care-and-maintenance Written by: Eliza Rose Laubach
While many plants we use in Healing Roots Design landscapes are natives well adapted to the Blue Ridge Mountains, some are not. There are a few plants that are especially susceptible to a deep freeze like what we have coming up this week, especially some edible perennials we use in our designs such as figs, rosemary, lavender, and some broad-leaf evergreens. If you are unsure whether a plant is going to survive a deep freeze, look up its plant hardiness range. Asheville and the surrounding region is in Zone 7, where temperatures can drop to 0 to 10 degrees during deep freeze cold snaps. In areas of higher elevation, with north or west facing slopes, the low will be on the colder end of that range. Frost can gather in low-lying areas, such as small valleys and the bottom of a holler. High winds can increase the wind chill, which can cause plants to dry out faster and become more susceptible to cold temperatures. Plants that are especially susceptible:
As we enter a new year, reflections abound. We'd like to share a reflection from one our staff members, Client Relations Specialist, Field Staff and Herbalist Eliza Rose Laubach, who supported recovery from Hurricane Helene. >>>> When Hurricane Helene swept through these hills, my world forever changed, as it was for so many. I live in Barnardsville, a small town outside of Asheville that was hit very hard from both wind and flooding. Thankfully my house sustained minimal damage. After a few days tending to damage done on the property where I live, I soon joined the many bewildered, grief-stricken and yet resilient, caring hearts who were meeting daily in the center of town at the post office, and then at the old firehouse across the street, to be the first hub for community-led central communication and supplies post-storm. We collectively organized ourselves to go out into the valley and check on people, organize spring water access, cook community meals and manage chest freezer thaw, chainsaw and tree work, and form work groups to repair damages. A smattering of nurses, medics, community health workers and herbalists gathered to organize a first aid station and field operations for wellness and missing person checks. I was a part of that group, collaborating on organizing medical donations, directing crews of practitioners to go out on 4x4 ATVs through impassable roads, and tending to first aid and medical needs as word of our field clinic spread. The mutual aid hub evolved constantly to meet emergent needs, thanks to the collaboration of the old firehouse building owner and a plethora of volunteers, many of whom had long-standing relationships from living in the same mountain valley together. The medics had their own room to set up, where we had a fully stocked medic and herbal first aid station. Working at Healing Roots Design, you can guess I’ve got a big place in my heart for plants. I am also a clinical herbalist, having recently completed a two year clinical training program with Vermont Center for Integrative Herbalism. Within a week, I was toting down a box full of bottles of herbal medicine, along with dosage bottles, to support my Barnardsville neighbors, fellow mutual aid hurricane relief workers, and anyone else who came into our first aid clinic. We were open every day for three weeks. Within that time, we began to take in donations of herbal medicine sent from herbalists in other regions, and set up a self-serve table outside our medic room. After three weeks, myself and a fellow local medic and herbalist who had been helping out, CoreyPine Shane of Blue Ridge School of Herbal Medicine, decided to form an herbal pop up clinic twice a week through November to offer out to the community the herbal donations now rolling in, as well as individualized consultations. In this time I gained invaluable clinic, community health and herbalism experience working with a variety of emergent and existing health concerns. This project fulfilled a vision I have long held: accessible, free health support and care for the whole person. While we have slowed down to several times a month during the winter, the Barnardsville Free Herb Clinic continues to support people still impacted in Hurricane Helene’s wake, in collaboration with the newly formed Appalachian Herb Collective, where we share donations and organize events region-wide. If you are interested in an herbal consultation, I am happy to offer that support to Healing Roots Design customers. We can also explore native species we could plant to further support your health goals. This is available as an add-on during the design process, or as part of a Stewardship plan! Reach out if you would like to add this care to your landscaping package! ~ Eliza Rose Laubach Healing Roots Design Client Relations Specialist/Field Staff and Herbalist |